Lost in Translation?

We took a trip to Tokyo- my first- and it was great!! With all due respect to Bill Murray, one of the best actors to date, Tokyo is an excellent destination. As my friend Chuck pointed out, anybody with his character’s lack of enthusiasm and bleakness while in a world renowned international city is simply a dull individual. Of course the crowds are huge- it’s Japan! Every city in the country is a New Years Eve at Time Square!

We took a too short, three day excursion to Japan’s modern capitol. Despite a population of 12 million, it was remarkably clean. Granted, we couldn’t get to all areas but the ones featured on Lost were really fun.

First on my list of places to go was the Tokyo Mosque. It was beautiful, the most amazing place I have ever had the Blessing of quietly stepping into. Tsugumi and I were wholly in awe. Again, Allah’s gift of the human capacity for creativity and exquisiteness was undeni-ably obvious. Fashi-oned after the Blue Mosque of Istan-bul, it also houses a Turkish cultural center and study hall where visitors and parishioners alike are welcomed with a smile and sweet warm tea. Flipping through the photo books of the Turkish landscape captured our interest as a possible landing for our spring travels, insha’Allah.

Though we only planned to stop in for a short while and make Asr, the afternoon prayer, we remained for several hours which quickly passed.
Listening to the Athan, calling people to prayer, resound inside the dome of the mosque was like the song of a nightingale at sunset. Following Maghrib, even- ing prayer, we made our way to a nice little soba shop in Ueno for dinner.

The next day, we rented bicycles and toured around much of the central district. When the bike keeper presented us with motorized mamacherries for 500 yen each we were more than excited. (By the way, mama charies are bicycles, reminiscent of the one that the Wicked Witch of the West rode in The Wizard of Oz. They’re commonly ridden in Japan by everyone from the guy in a business suit to a mom with a baby in the front basket and her husband sitting on the back rack with a dog in his lap- yes, I’ve seen it happen.) Though initially enthused about the motorized bicycles, I have to admit, they’re not worth their weight. The battery pack was short lived and only gave a small boost as we went up hills. It would have been just as easy without the motor boost as it was with it. Plus, on the way back, we had to turn them on in order to activate the headlights. Live and learn. Anyway, we were able to get around to quite a few places this way.

We started out by going around the Kokyo Imperial Palace where the royal family resides. The buildings are hidden from view by a mass of greenery along with a mote which encircles the perimeter, beside a wall composed of huge stones- commonly used to fortify Japanese castles. We later hit the business districts where ballpoint pens can cost several hundred dollars each.

After returning the bikes, we took a ride on a great rollercoaster! That was also a first for me. Previously, I hadn’t been on anything bigger than that which the carnivals tote around the fair- grounds every year. It was really a thrill. They built it on top of a shopping mall so it was already three stories up. As it was night time, I was able to convince Tsugumi of the beautiful view that it would offer. Once we were strapped in, I think the view lasted a few seconds just before we made what seemed to be a vertical plunge into darkness at 80 mph. I have to admit, as we were headed down, I was having second thoughts but when it was all said and done, I would have liked to have given it a second round.

Our last day, we spent mostly at Ueno park. There were many sites to be taken in. The park itself is home to three museums and a few shrines, not to mention, numerous blue tarps set up by the homeless who reside in the wooded areas. We were detracted away from the museums by the huge lines of people waiting at the ticket counters. I once saw a line of about three thousand waiting to see a Van Gough exhibit- which I chose to exchange for breathing space. We did make it the Toshogu shrine, built in 1627.
It is a humble structure, unlike most, and has survived through earthquakes, battles, and somehow managed to be spared by the carpet bombings of WWII. Painted in deep shades of red and gold, it doesn’t appear to have ever been restored or manipulated, except for the flooring. Inside, there are a number of artifacts displayed in rooms of peeling murals. I imagined a time when the autocrats sat on the tatami, sipping tea. I presume that if they ever knew me, a commoner and foreigner at that, were roaming around the shogun’s quarters, it would send them rolling in their graves.

Our plane didn’t depart until 19:30 so we were able to stop by Sensoji, close to our hotel. Sensoji is Tokyo’s oldest temple, built in 645 CE. It’s a very popular site so there were throngs of people, mostly along the 200 meter pathway, lined with food and trinket stands, leading to the temple entrance. There was a quaint hat shop half way in where I found a beautiful, burnt orange hat for Tsugumi. Hats made in Japan are of excellent quality, handmade design though can be ridiculously expensive. The winter chill was beginning to set in so once we took in the scenery, we headed back to the hotel to gather our bags and make our way home.

Besides the Tokyo Mosque and the other things I mentioned, one of the greatest treats was hitting up the veggie lunch buffets and organic markets.
Tsugumi looked up several places; we made it to three (our bellies can only take in so much, you know. Consequently, we only ate dinner only once!) Two of the places we went to were Japanese: Mother’s and the Crayon House; the other was Nataraj, an Indian spot. The food was sooo good! Kansai is really lacking in the vegetarian arena so finding such a great selection in Tokyo was really refreshing. Plus, we didn’t pay more than 1200 yen at any of them- super cheap by Japanese standards. We went to one buffet in Osaka where I could hardly eat a thing- though what I did find, I could eat till my heart’s content- and spent 2300 per person.

Bottom line: Lost in Translation is way off. Tokyo is a must see, must visit, kind of place. What’s more, I guarantee, you’ll never see cleaner subway seats in any other city in the world- except, maybe Singapore where they fine gum chewers and cane vandals- not a bad idea if you’ve ever been on a subway or bus in the States.

The Japanese Autumn: truly magnificant

The autumn colors have arrived, painting the landscape with rich shades of yellow and red. Were one to fall asleep beneath a Japanese Maple in September and awaken in November, they might think the sky had been set ablaze. Locals speak of earlier times, before the global warming epidemic, when the autumn colors were even greater than those displayed today, something I can hardly imagine when I visit the countryside this time of year.

Mino Mountain, known mostly for its aggressive monkeys that are quick to rob the naïve, who get too close, of anything they can get their hands around, seems to awaken to a whole new world once the leaves begin to turn. We recently cycled to the top to take in the sites. After living in what seems to be an endless sprawl of apart-
ments and houses built so close together you could change the channel on your neighbor’s television if only you shared the same remote, it’s hard to believe you’re still in Japan, that is until you try to sneak a glimpse at the deeply revered waterfall. One peak over the edge reveals a sea of people thicker than a Bloomsday Run.

One note about Japan: its size is relevant to the State of California with a population half that of the entire United States. Now, imagine ninety percent of those people occupying fifteen percent of the land and you can begin to understand more clearly the meaning of population density. On the other hand, as a result of these high concentrations of people, Japan has an amazing gift to offer those who wish to venture out beyond confines of the urban landscape. Somewhere on Yakushima, an island region in the south, there is said to exist the world’s oldest living tree. Imagine the fables enshrined in the core of its thick, twisted bark.

We also took the plunge into the steady flow of people visiting Kyoto in search of something beautiful beyond the small reservations of trees that dot their neighborhoods. It was especially busy as the week before it had been graced with the Thorn who seems to take pleasure in tearing away at the hopes for a sustainable environment; none other than our Commander in Chief.

The irony of the world’s most powerful leader being honored by an all exclusive tour into the cultural heart of Japan, to gaze upon the wondrous beauty in all its splendor while condemning its protocol, which calls for the "stabilization of greenhouse gas concentrations in the atmosphere at a level that would prevent dangerous anthropogenic interference with the climate system", is more than I care to ingest. The audacity of someone who spits on environmental protection, getting an unfettered tour of anything the natural creation has to offer at the peak of its splendor, while tens of thousands are told to go home, is truly insulting.

Thankfully, we planned our visit to Kyoto the following weekend, although we weren’t the only ones. Despite the tens of thousands who, along with us, had postponed their visit, turning out in huge numbers to view the fiery maples and bright yellow ginkgos, while at times it was difficult to sneak a peak, doing so was worth the inconvenience. For anyone who hasn’t laid eyes on the Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion Temple, it a magnificent demonstration of craftsmanship, covered in pure gold leaf. Set among the flaming colors of the autumn trees it’s nearly breathtaking. It’s truly a scene where God’s gifts of natural creation and human ability are realized.

Where the Deer are Tame

Nara, located an hour or so south of Osaka, makes for a great weekend destination. With its easily accessible sites- not saturated by crowds of people- some actually prefer it to Kyoto, the cultural heart of Japan. Known for its many World Heritage sites, it's also the only place I have ever seen tame deer- not necessarily a good thing due to their becoming dependent on handouts of sembe, fried rice crackers that are sold, along with disposable cameras, around every corner of their roaming area. The novelty of feeding flocks of malnourished deer with mangy coats wears off quickly.

There were many wide open parks with places to sit and eat lunch and, with the deer in the distance, it was quite relaxing. There was a feeling of quietness that was somehow refreshing enough to hear. The grasses were like carpets of green, almost like I would expect in some remote prairie in the mountains, not unlike a scene out of The Sound of Music- a film I have never actually seen in its entirety, for better or worse.

Japan's history as a nation goes back to the sixth century BCE; in 714 Nara was established as its first formal capitol.By 784, the Buddhist monasteries had become enough of an influence as to threaten the aristo- cracy. Thus, the decision was handed down to relocate to a more obedient region in the north for ten years before moving to Kyoto, where it remained for a millennium.

We made it to two of the shrines designated with World Heritage status. During what is referred to as the Nara Period, Japan adopted many of the Buddhist practices that are continued today. It was also during this period, in 710, the Fujiwara family, one of the period's most powerful, had the Kofuku-ji temple erected. It remains the symbol of Nara. Looking up five stories, to the top, I imagined what it must have felt like to be assigned to setting the roof tiles with 8th century equipment.

As with most of our tours, we rented bicycles and rode along to our next stop. Coming upon a path, lined by rows of cedar, we began to see the deer, scrounging around for something to eat. They remain primarily in the park which is a little odd because its perimeter is surrounded by busy streets and motorists who seem to fancy jumping on the accelerator only to slam on the breaks fifty yards later. Japan is a brake mechanic's dream. Fortunately, I didn't see any unlucky deer on the side of the road. They were so quick to surround the bearers of sembe I wondered how the merchants, who display it out in the open, manage to keep the deer from overrunning their carts but they kept their distance.

As we made our way to the next temple and found a place to park, we paid our small fare to enter the Todai-ji, the Great Eastern Temple, housing Japan’s largest Buddha figure, constructed in 752. The structure itself, rebuilt in 1692, is the largest wooden building in the world; its original size was actually one third larger. The amazing thing about many of these structures is the way the craftsmen put them together- without a single nail! Everything is jointed. The only nails that were used are in the doors and on the decorative metal work. Considering the age of these structures, how they're built, and the number of fault lines that crisscross the country, it's remarkable that they've remained largely intact.

Nara really is a beautiful city to visit. If time allows, a night at the Nara Hotel, close to the sites, is supposed to be great. It was built in 1909, in traditional Japanese style. I doubt I'll be doing so anytime soon because of its close proximity to where we live. Although I enjoy Kyoto for the many things it has to offer, Nara is definitely a sanctuary to those of us who aren't up to swimming in a sea of people. Either way, when visiting Japan, Nara is a must.

Eid Mubarak!

Eid al Fitr has come, marking the end of the Holy Month of Ramadan. Sisters and Brothers from all over Japan congregated to offer their prayers and their Zakat to help those in need. As it was a national holiday, many people who may not have otherwise been able to participate were present. The Eid prayer is the most significant communal gathering of the year and it a great opportunity to see the people we’ve had the pleasure of breaking bread with during the month as well as those who are normally unable to frequent the mosque.

As with any mosque during Eid, Kobe’s was filled beyond capacity, with people occupying every square meter available; there was even an overflow into the parking lot! Al-humdulilah! Praise be to Allah! Following the Eid Prayer, some of us went and tried our best at karaoke. Selman, my Brother from Toronto, made some mad rhymes worthy of an album. Lutfi, from Indonesia, sang like the Prince himself, and I have to give props to Russel, my British Brother, for his tracks. We were missing Ashfaq, who was back home in London, celebrating with his family but with us in spirit. May we continue to strive to become better human beings as much after Eid as before it.

To help us with this effort, Imam Mohsen, of Kobe Mosque, has provided some suggestions.

Ramadan in Kansai

Ramadan in Kobe is wonderful. Throughout the entire month, members of the community volunteer, donating their time, money, and hard work to prepare iftar, the meal which breaks the fast at sundown. It’s quite an amazing ordeal as there can be anywhere from 50 to a few hundred people in attendance. What I most enjoy about having iftar at the mosque is the variety of dishes that are provided, reflecting the ethnic diversity of the congregation. It’s a great Blessing to sit among so many people, from so many places, all sharing in the same event.

In addition to the brothers and sisters who frequent the mosque, we also have the pleasure of meeting many people from other areas in Japan as well as those stopping in while on business trips to the area. I’ve met students from Hokkaido, engineers from the States, and physicians from Iran. Not all of them are fasting, as it is not required while traveling; some merely come to take part in the community atmosphere and to participate in the evening prayers.

I’m fortunate enough to be in the company on imam who is a hafiz, one who can recite each and every word of the Qur’an, from beginning to end, from memory. Standing in our prayer lines shoulder to shoulder, side by side, equal before our Creator, while the imam recites the Words of Allah, is simply beautiful. As soon as Ramadan comes, it is gone again. As it is a time for spiritual renewal, I pray that all of us continue our devotion to the One who gave us life and sustains our being. Ramadan is truly a Blessing.

Ramadan Greetings

Ramadan Mubarak!

Life in Japan is good. The weather is cooling down and soon, insha'Allah, the leaves will be turning into their miraculous shades of fiery red and sunshine yellow, one of the many wonders of God's Creation. As we enter November, more than one billion people, in every country on earth, are completing the holy month of Ramadan- a month of daytime fasting, prayer and contemplation in hopes of growing nearer to God. This is the month of spiritual renewal and if lived properly, will provide a fresh foundation for the coming year. Each year, Ramadan falls approximately 10 days earlier than the previous year, allowing us the opportunity to experience this special month in every season God has to offer us.

Above and beyond anything we can gain from this month, is nearness to the Creator and Sustainer. As we as Jews, Christians, and Muslims worship the same God, be you call out to Yahweh, God, or Allah, we all desire this closeness. For those who are interested, I have included a pathway to the sermons of a dear Brother minister of mine who has recently decided to publish them online. His words are very insightful and candid, and although they differ in many respects to the teachings I practice-as they are of a Christian perspective- I respect very much his efforts in bringing people closer to God.

May we all reach this common goal.

Ameen & God Bless.

An Answer to a FAQ: Coming to Islam

I was raised in a fairly progressive Christian environment, one that did not follow a specific church dogma and was surrounded with an abundance of ideas. My parents both came from different Christian traditions, later finding a new route all together. They adopted the belief that the Bible itself outweighed any doctrine that was 'inspired' by it, contrary to many Christian sects, Catholicism, in particular.

When I reached age 18, I started questioning the faith I grew up with and began investigating others. I looked at the usual eastern philosophy, i.e., Buddhism, Hinduism, and of course, various forms of Christianity. It was during that search when I discovered that the central belief toward my knowing and understanding God (the mantra “The Word of God is the Will of God”) to be full of inconsistencies and overall inaccuracies- at least as far as applying it to the Bible is concerned. When I took up researching other faiths, I continued to run into the same problem; either doctrine outweighed actual Word or there were so many additions to the initial message that the intended meaning had be all together impossible to rediscover. Whether or not I agreed with or appriciated these additions was not the issue; I was in search of learning God’s Will though the message had been buried long before. Islam provided the cure to my dilemma.

It be should noted that I'm very analytical-overly so in the eyes of many- especially when it comes to issues of importance, in this case, the Word of Allah. The Quran’s integrity was beyond question- that being the most attractive quality of Islam. I have never questioned the existence of Allah- I simply wanted to learn the best way to please my Creator but in order to do so, I actually had to know what that message was.

People are always surprised when I tell them I came to Islam on my own accord, i.e., without having known any Muslims- I did know a Muslima from Turkey but she didn’t practice. Thus, it’s more accurate to say that Islam came to me; "Take one step toward Allah and Allah will take two towards you", as the teaching goes. As such, I was blessed with the opportunity to study without interference, i.e., people telling me I had to follow a particular set of fatwas, or school of thought, etc. In so doing, I believe I was at a great advantage for building a firm foundation for my iman. After having made Shahadda, declaration of faith, however, I began to read some the Saudi and Iranian propaganda that various brothers gave me and was briefly convinced of what I view now as corrupt ideologies, especially in regards to women. Fortunately, it wasn’t long before these concepts began to conflict with my personal ethics, at which point I distanced myself from many of the Muslims that surrounded me at that time. After a few years of nearly isolated practice and study, I began to realize that there were a lot of people with similar convictions and a wealth of material supporting my conclusions. Al-humdulilah, after a long re-thinking process, I developed a great inspiration that continues to strengthen my faith in Allah.


The Importance of Zain

Though I appreciate the genius of mathematics, I have never been great at its application. As a student, I always had a tutor to assist me. My university had a 24 hour study lounge where I often went to do my homework. One night, I called to see if my tutor/ex-girlfriend was there. When the phone picked up, I asked to speak with her. The person who happened to answer asked who was calling; I said, "Zain." My tutor came to the phone and I then proceeded to make arrangements to meet with her. When she hung up, Said, the person who answered the phone, asked her if I was Muslim. She said no but that I was interested in Islam and had been studying it for some time. When I arrived, Said introduced himself and offered to accompany me to the mosque for Friday prayers. Later that evening, I went to the Masjid and made Shahadda.

Here's were my name comes in. First of all, had Said not asked for my name, it would have been like any other night of studying. But, since he did, and because he recognized my name as being of Arabic origin, I was blessed with having been introduced into the ummah or community of faith.

So Far…

Over the last ten years, I have grown closer to Allah than I could have ever imagined. Despite all of the negative press Islam continues to be plagued with, I have never regretted my decision. The fact that there is a tremendous amount of injustice carried out in the name of Islam cannot be ignored. The truth is, as Muslims, it is our responsibility to overcome the negative stereotypes and demonstrate the actual meaning of our faith. That’s not to say that the press is unbiased in its reporting: it’s extremely biased. There is a definite agenda being followed but that does not overshadow the ills that we must correct. When more than half of our population, i.e., women, is subjected to second-class status and people are committing murder in the name of Allah, we must respond. The Taliban and Al-Queda is real (though their power and influence is extremely exaggerated) and what they did in Afghanistan was appalling. One of the biggest criticisms I have encountered has been from people who had not heard a condemnation of what took place on September 11th. In fact, there were several prominent voices that spoke out against it from amongst the Muslim leadership, as well as from the laity. Unfortunately, these voices were not given much attention in the media; therefore, they don’t exist in most people’s reality. Instead, the public was fed images of celebration among some pockets of the Muslim World (albeit some footage was admittedly taken out of context by way of using scenes from completely unrelated events).

What we have to do, as Muslims, is educate ourselves to make a necessary reformation. We must not allow extremists to speak using our voice. We must teach our children and the young people who are coming into this world to be proud of who they are. Seeking knowledge is a Divine command and is not limited to the male gender, contrary to what goes on in some countries. We are instructed that those whose faith in Islam is strongest are those who intervene in the sight of injustice. What could possibly be more detrimental than remaining silent in the face of an assault from within? To ignore our faults is to perpetuate our own demise. Islam is a wonderful blessing and if we allow its further decay, we will be held accountable. No imam, mullah, sheik, or alam will answer for our own negligence. What brought me to Islam was its message of freedom, justice and equality- none of these values can be upheld without truth, patience, and consistency.