The Little Sicily of Mondoyakujin

Last year, one of my former colleagues recommended an Italian restaurant, only a short bike ride from our flat. We ventured there on a few occasions during the summer but they were always closed. I was worried they had shut down. One day while we were in the vicinity of Mondoyakujin, we followed the sweet scent of simmering tomatoes and fresh oregano to the entrance of La Lanterna. “Alas! It’s open!” we expressed with delightful anticipation. As we ventured inside, we came into a dimly lit space, housing a bar and six or eight stools against the triangular 8 x 12 kitchen (considerably narrower at the end with the cash register), along with a few tables situated opposite the entrance. We managed to squeeze into a tiny space at the bar.

The guys behind the counter were both Sicilian- a hopeful site. The menu features a wide selection of pasta and pizza at typical Japanese prices, $10-$20 a plate. Tsugumi ordered a pasta dish swimming in fresh stewed tomatoes and herbs while I opted for the pizza margarita. The pasta was perfect- served aldente in a light fragrant sauce. The pizza was no less incredible, baked in a large wood fired oven, producing a soft, bubbly crust. We followed it up with espresso and a slice of rich, handmade tiramisu. It’s not everyday that we find Italian food as authentic as this. The only other time I experienced anything similar was in New York’s Little Italy.

Over the weekend, we decided to make our way back there again. We found our place at the bar, this time they were just opening for dinner, the soccer game playing on the television lodged in the corner, near the ceiling above. We were the first arrivals of the evening. Tsugumi decided on the pasta formaggio; I chose the Sicilian pizza. The owner, Salvatore Maggio, is a really friendly guy whose command of Japanese outdoes his English ability. He’s been in Japan for six years and plans to open another spot in Tokyo. He said he imports his ingredients from Italy himself- one would almost have to if they wanted to turn a profit. He also owns a restaurant back home. I don’t know if we’ll ever make it there- for now La Lanterna serves as our imaginary portal into Sicily.